カステラは、下図上段の右に位置するhigh ratio cakeの究極バージョンになります。使用する卵黄／卵白の個数比が逆転していますので濃厚カステラを作成しようとするほど混ぜ合わせが困難になってきます。適度の保湿は焼きあがったカステラの口どけ感を左右する決定的因子となりますので必然的に強力粉主体のレシピとなります。
上図は1Lの牛乳パックを2つ重ねて断熱壁を作成しています(V=7cm x 7cm x 33cm）。これが我が家の天板に乗せられる最大サイズになります。上面以外が即席の断熱面となります。アルミホイルは作成が簡単になるように幅が25cmのものを使用します。理論的には外面をアルミホイルで囲う分は節約してもよいと考えますが作成を簡易化するために全体に巻き付けます。まず属面に図のようにアルミホイルを1層巻いてホチキスで止めます。次に110 cm x 25cmのサイズにアルミホイルをはさみで切断し２、続いて110 cm x 12.5cmの長方形２つに2分します。両端を織り込んで幅を7cm弱に整えます。これを内側底面からかぶせ両端の正方形面もカバーします。これをもう1層して位置が移動しないようにホチキスで止めます。 次に、内側に設置するクッキングシート製の型を作ります。幅30cmのシートを使用して、6.8cm x 11.6cm x 32.8cmの直方体の型を作成します。これもホチキスで止めて作成します。牛乳パック型の内側に設置して準備完了です。
Basic Castella Sponge Cake : The ratio sugar / flour is estimated to be about 1.64 in terms of granulated sugar.
Instructions: 調理法
①大型ボウルに、卵黄5個分と上白糖65グラムを入れBain-marieで混合します。砂糖が解けたら湯煎から外して室温でしばらく放置しておきます。 ②メタルボウルに卵白4個分を入れ、レモンジュース4グラム加えて電動ホイッパーで攪拌します。 ③加える砂糖の量が多いですので4回にに分けてsoft peak手前から加えていきます。最終的にはstiff peakとfirm peakの中間位に仕上げます。 ④go back methodに従い攪拌した卵黄とメレンゲをスパチュラで混ぜます。
Making castella sponge cake butter : ① Cast 5 egg yolks and 65 gram superfine sugar into a large bowl to mix well with a balloon whisk over simmering water in a saucepan (Bain-marie). The sugar resolved, leave it at room temperature for a while. ② Pour 4 egg whites and 4 gram lemon juice into a metal bowl. Electric-whisk until lightly whipped. ③ Gradually adding 120 gram superfine sugar in 4 batches, continue electric-whisking until firm peak form near stiff peak form. ④ According to go-back method, fold the meringue and the egg yolk mixture until well incorporated.
Making batter and oven-baking: ⑤ Pour 45 gram maple-tasted cake syrup and 45 gram whole milk into a 250 ml measuring cup. Warm it in a hot water. ⑥ Sift 150 gram bread flour over the egg yolk-meringue mixture and fold it gently gradually adding the hot milk-syrup until well incorporated. ⑦ Sprinkle 25 gram medium size crystal sugar into the cooking paper mold. ⑧ Pour the batter and flip it down a few times to remove air bubbles. ⑨ Oven bake at 170C for 10 minutes and add further baking at 160C for about 50 minutes. Do not over-bake.
バレンタインデーも近いですので、普段あまり手を出さないチョコレートスポンジケーキの王道”ザッハトルテ”を作ってみました。”Modern French Pastry”には、”チョコレートが苦手だという者は、単に素敵なチョコレートに巡り合っていないだけだ”とある。ならばということで、”究極のストロングテイストの”大人味チョコレートケーキを”というコンセプトでホテルザッハー風のザッハトルテを作ってみました。
Strawberry Jam : When using granulated sugar, prepare a half volume (weight) of strawberries.
Sacher Chocolate Sponge Cake
Amount for φ18cm cake pan
Salted butter
210 gram
Powdered Superfine sugar
56 gram
Egg Yolk (M)
8 ea.
Dark Chocolate
210 gram
Cake Flour
125 gram
Bread Flour (Strong Flour)
60 gram
Pure Cocoa Powder
25 gram
Egg White
8 ea.
Powdered Superfine Sugar
56 gram
White Wine Vinegar
3 gram
Vanilla Oil
a few drops
Baking Trick
170C x 40 minutes plus 180C x 10 minutes
Sacher Sponge Cake : The amount (weight) of salted butter equals to that of dark chocolate, to that of total volume of flour ( cake flour, bread flour and cacao powder).
Chocolate Glaze : The volume of this recipe is just only one batch for glazing. I think it better to use 200 gram dark chocolate and adjust each amount in proportion to it respectively.
Preparing the strawberry jam for Sacher glaze: ① Place 280 gram strawberries and 105 gram superfine sugar, 6 gram lemon juice in a saucepan. Leave it at room temperature until it gets somewhat juicy. ② Crush the strawberries roughly with a wooden spoon. ③ Simmer it over the medium heat to bring it to a boil. ④ Transfer the strawberry mixture into a 500 mL measuring cup. Electric-blend until it gets in to puree. ⑤ Get the puree back to the saucepan. Simmer it over medium-low heat with stirring continuously with the wooden spoon and concentrate until you can see the bottom of the saucepan for a second when you stir the jam.
Making Sacher chocolate sponge cake : In advance, prepare powdered superfine sugar to electric-mix typical superfine sugar into fine powder. Line parchment paper on the bottom and the side of φ18 cm cake pan. Preheat the oven up to 170C. ① Dump 210 gram salted butter in a large bowl and electric-whisk roughly. ② Add 56 gram powdered superfine sugar and continue to electric-whisk until it gets creamy and well incorporated. ③ Separate egg yolks from egg white. Place 1 egg yolk into the butter cream to electric-whisk until well incorporated. Repeat that procedure 8 times until all egg yolks are exhausted. Do not mix all at one time. ④ Dump 210 gram dark chocolate into a middle heat-durable bowl. Melt the chocolate over simmering water in a saucepan (Bain-marie). ⑤ When the fluid chocolate gets a little thick, pour it into the egg yolk-butter mixture to electric-whisk until well incorporated.
⑦メタルボウルに卵白8個分を入れ3グラムの白ワインビネガーを加えて電動ホイッパーで混ぜます。 ⑧若干soft peak気味になったところで粉砕上白糖56グラムを2回に分けて投入し、電動ミキサーで攪拌してsoft peakメレンゲに仕上げます。メレンゲの硬度をこれ以上上げると粉類との混合が困難になりますので注意が必要です。 ⑨go back methodに従いメレンゲを少量チョコ卵黄クリームに投入しスパチュラで丁寧に混ぜ合わせます。これをメレンゲボウルにもどします。丁寧にdown to up foldで均等になるよう混ぜ合わせます。この時香りの調整にバニラオイルを数滴滴下しておきます。 ⑩薄力粉125グラム、強力粉60グラム、純ココアパウダー25グラムを一度別容器に篩い、フォークで均等になるように混ぜます。塊を極力減らすためにこれをチョコレートメレンゲの上から篩います。 ⑪スパチュラで丁寧にcenter to margin & down to up foldしていきます。こんなものを本当に混ぜることが出きるのかと思える粘度ですが、丁寧に混ぜるとheavy volumeの超粘調バッターが完成します。 ⑫用意しておいたケーキ型に生地を流し込み適度に表面を整えます。この粘度では内部大きな気泡を追い出すのは困難ですが何回かトントンと机の上にケーキ型を落として気泡を追い出しておきます。170℃で40分前後焼灼したあと、竹くしで中心まで焼成できたかどうか確認（予想通り不十分です）の後、180℃で焼成10分程追加して仕上げます。 ⑬クーリングラックにおいて室温で冷めるのを待ちます。
Making soft peak meringue and batching : ⑥ Place 8 egg whites and 3 gram white wine vinegar into a metal bowl. Electric-whisk roughly at low speed until it turned white and fluffy. ⑦ Gradually adding 56 gram sugar in 2 batches, electric-whisk until the soft peak form. Do not over-whisk. ⑧ According to “go back method”, mix the soft peak meringue and chocolate dough with folding it gently with a spatula. Give it a few drops of vanilla oil on folding. ⑨ Sift 125 gram cake flour, 60 gram bread flour and 25 gram cocoa powder in a large cup to stir it well with a fork. Then sieve it over the dough and fold it gently until well incorporated. Although the butter is too hard to fold well, do not surrender to intimidation. ⑩ Pour the batter in to the cake pan. Oven bake at 170C for 40 minutes and additionally at 180C for about 10 minutes. After that, leave it on a cooling rack at room temperature.
Making Chocolate Glaze : ① Pour 75 gram water and 125 gram powdered superfine sugar in a saucepan over medium-high heat. ② When it comes to a boil, turn off the burner. Once the temperature has dropped down to 80C, dump 165 gram dark chocolate into it. Stir well with a balloon whipper.
Assembling : ① Cut the sponge cake horizontally into 2 parts of the same volume and remove irregular surface. ② Paste the strawberry jam sufficiently on the surface of the lower layered sponge cake. Put the another sponge cake on it. Similarly pour the jam on top. Lastly glaze the chocolate. ③ Chill it in a frige for about 3 hours.
Notice: The cocoa powder used in this recipe is not “pure cocoa powder”, coming up with ” high-bitter cocoa” commercially. Peach compote juice is previously made ( →see the section “peach compote”.)
＜ビスキュイ＝レディーフィンガーの作成＞ ①卵黄5個、上白糖45グラムを耐熱大ボウルに入れ、フラワーホイッパーでBain-marrieで十分混合します。 ②卵白5個、白ワインビネガー3グラムをメタルボウルに入れ電動ホイッパーでsoft peakまで泡立てします。 ③上白糖を2回に分けて加えながらstiff peakまでメレンゲを仕上げます。 ④泡立て卵黄とメレンゲをgo back methodに従い合わせていきます。この時バニラオイルを適量加えて卵臭さを中和しておきます。 ⑤薄力粉82グラム、ココアパウダー8グラムを上から篩い、スパチュラで丁寧に混ぜます。 ⑥絞り袋に生地を移し、クッキングシートの上にティラミス作成のとき同様にφ18cmの円と6 x 20 cm長方形x2個に生地を絞ります。表面にパウダーシュガーを2回篩います。 ⑦オーブンで190℃ X 約10分焼成します。焼きあがったらクーリングラックの上で室温で冷まします。 ⑧生地が冷めたら用意した焼き型に合うようにはさみで生地をトリミングします。今回は側面は三角形に整えてみました。焼き型にセットします。
Preparing Lady-finger sponge cake ; 1. Place 5 egg yolks and 45 gram superfine sugar in a middle bowl and whisk until sugar is completely dissolved, over simmering water in a saucepan ( Bain-marie ). 2. Place 5 egg whites and 3 gram white wine vinegar in a metal bowl. Electric-whisk until soft peak form. Gradually adding 45 gram superfine sugar ( in 2 batches), continue electric-whisk until stiff peak form. 3. According to ” go back method”, gently fold the egg yolk mixture into the stiff peak meringue. Add a few drops of vanilla oil to decrease the smell of egg. 4. Sift 82 gram cake flour and 8 gram cacao powder over the egg yolk mixture. Fold gently so as not to deflate the meringue. 5. Transfer the batter into a pastry bag. Pipe 2 sets of the round (φ 18 cm) and the rectangular ( 6 x 18 cm ) with φ 1 cm width on a parchment paper. Sprinkle powder sugar appropriately over the dough twice. 6. Oven-bake at 180C for about 10 minutes until the surface gets golden brown. 7. Cool it on the cooling rack at room temperature. 8. Trim it as you like, but carefully re-size the round-shaped cake just fitting to the internal diameter of the sponge cake dome.
Making Peach Cream Cheese Mousse : 1. Cast 8 gram powder gelatin into the 40 gram peach compote ( prepared beforehand) and bloom it in a small cup. Keep it cool in a fridge until use. 2. Pour 100 gram cold heavy cream in a metal bowl and add 20 gram superfine sugar. Electric-whisk until stiff peak form. 3. Dump 100 gram cream cheese into the whipped cream in 4 batches. Electric-whisk until no streak of the cream cheese can be seen. 4. Electric-blend 128 gram fresh peach ( 1 ea.) into puree. Pour it into the cream cheese mixture. Electric-whisk until well incorporated. 5. Heat the pre-bloomed gelatin until completely dissolved. Pour it into the cream cheese mixture and electric-whisk until smooth. The peach cream mousse has done. 6. Pour the mousse all into the sponge cake dome. Place the round-shaped cake over the mousse.
Making Peach Bavarois : 1. Cast 10 gram powder gelatin into the 50 gram peach compote and bloom it. Chill it in a fridge until use. 2. Place 3 egg yolks and 20 gram superfine sugar into a large bowl and whisk it well. 3. Pour 200 gram heavy cream and the 150 gram peach compote into a saucepan over medium heat to bring it to a boil. 4. Gradually pouring the hot cream into the egg mixture with stirring continuously to temper it. 5. Go back the mixture into the saucepan over medium-low heat. Whisk continuously until it gets slightly thicken. Stay cautious not to get burned by frequent boiling up. 6. Exchange the balloon whipper for a spatula and continue to concentrate. When the dough gets enough thicken to draw a line on the surface of the spatula with your finger, the dough has done. 7. Remove from heat and transfer the dough into the bowl. Chill it in a fridge to stop further baking.
Assembling ⑧ Take the peach cream out from the fridge when its temperature gets as low as body temperature. Warm the bloomed gelatin until it gets resolved, mix well into the peach compote cream. ⑨ Pour it into the dome and chill it in a fridge overnight to confirm the bavarois gets firm. ⑩Slice a fresh peach and set on top. Pour nappage over it.
Preparing for batter : ① Separate egg yolks from egg whites. Place 4 egg yolks and 50 gram superfine sugar in a large heat-durable bowl. Dissolve sugar over simmering water in a saucepan (Bain-marie). ② Remove from heat. Whisk until it gets pale and triple-voluminous as ribbon stage. ③ Pour 200 gram whole milk in a 250 mL measuring cup and put 40 gram butter into it. Then dissolve the butter in a hot water to make milk butter. ④ Meanwhile, peer an apple to cut into a half size. Remove core and slice it into about 5mm width.
Mixing with Meringue : ⑤ The milk butter dropping low around 40C in temperature, combine it with the egg yolk mixture to whisk evenly until well incorporated. Leave it aside until use. ⑥ Place 4 egg whites and 3 gram white wine vinegar into a metal bowl. Electric-whisk at low speed until the soft peal form. ⑦ Add 30 gram superfine sugar and continue electric-whisking at high speed until it gets into the firm peak form. ⑧ Dump 1/4 volume of the meringue into the egg yolk mixture and fold it gently until well incorporated. Put all of the leftover of the meringue with a few drops of vanilla oil into it to fold it gently so as not to deflate as possible. .⑨ Sieve the flour (50 gram bread four and 90 gram cake flour) over it and combine with down to up fold from center to margin. ⑩ Put all the sliced apples into the batter and soak them well.
Oven-baking : ① Place the thin-sliced apples well soaked in the prepared rectangular pan. Overlay them evenly and flatly using chopsticks until exhausted. Finally pour the remaining batter over the apple layer. ② Place on a baking tray and oven-bake at 170C for about 60 minutes until the batter gets golden brown in color and well cooked. ③ Take out from the oven and remove the outer mold. Let it cool on a cooling rack at room temperature. ④ Then chill it in a fridge overnight attached with the paper mold. ⑤ Flip upside down and punch out the φ6 cm column using a cercle. The linear line of the sliced apple is clearly shown. ⑥ Set in a glass and pour the whipped cream on top as sample to taste.
Making a carrot batter: ①lLine parchment paper on bottom and side of a cake pan. Preheat the oven up to 180C. ②Dump 160 gram Tianjin sweet roasted chestnuts into a mixing cup to crush it into the powdered. Grate 250 gram carrot with a ceramic peeler and dice into small pieces. ③Sift 140 gram cake flour, 140gram bread flour, 3 gram cinnamon powder, 2.5 gram salt, 3 gram baking powder, and 3 gram baking soda into large bowl to mix well with a fork. ④Place 4 whole eggs and 320 gram powdered sugar into a heat durable large bowl and whisk over the double boiler (Bain-Marie) until the sugar is completely melted. ⑤Remove from heat and electric-whisk until it gets pale and triple volume (ribbon stage). ⑥Pour 300 gram vegetable oil and continue to electric-whisk at low speed until it gets well incorporated.
⑦刻みニンジン250グラムを投入してホイッパーで均一になるように混ぜます。 ⑧粉類を篩い、スパチュラでホールドしていきます。常法に従い、中心から外側に向かい下方から上方に回転させながら混ぜます（center to margin, down to up fold)。篩に残った少しおきめの塊は最後に混ぜます。 ⑨焼型（18 cm springform pan)に注ぎます。なかなか熱が通りにくいですので忍耐を要します。4層分を一回で焼き上げますので火入れは工夫が必要です（4つの焼き型があるなら4等分して焼けば１個30分位で焼成できると思います）。まず180℃で約30分焼成します。この辺で表面の焼きが先行しますので、アルミホイルでふたをして170℃に落としてあとはじっくり焼きます。大体プラス50分位かかってやっとバウンスバックと串による確認で焼きあがったことが確認できました。 ⑩ケーキスライサーで4層に分割します。こういう時は便利な道具です。 クレームシャンティイ（作成法はその4を参考にしてください）をこしらえて、スポンジ→ホイップクリーム→ スポンジ→ホイップクリーム の順に積んでいき、最後にピーラーを用いて削りチョコを振りかけます。
⑦Dump grated carrots all into the batter and whisk evenly with a balloon whipper. ⑧Sieve dry ingredients and fold it gently with a spatula following the center to margin, and down to up fold. ⑨Pour the batter into the cake pan and oven-bake at 180C for about 30 minutes and successively bake at 170C for about 50 minutes covered on top with aluminum foil. ⑩Cool it at room temperature and cut horizontally with a cake slicer into 4 parts. Assemble the cake with Creme Chantilly and grate dark chocolate on top.
Making a Victoria Sponge Cake: In advance, grease a cake pan to line parchment paper, and preheat the oven up to 170C. ① Place 120 gram salted butter and 60 gram margarine, 135 gram powdered superfine sugar in a large bowl. Whisk until it gets creamy. ② Beat 3 whole eggs and pour them into the butter cream and whisk until well incorporated as possible. That’s a tough work so that you had better to use an electric whipper. ③Shift 170 gram cake flour and 7 gram baking powder, 3 gram salt over the egg-butter mixture in 3 batches, and fold it. If the batter is too hard, loosen it by adding some milk. ④Pour the batter into the cake pan and oven-bake at 170C for about 45 minutes. ⑤ Let it cool at room temperature. After unmoulding to rip the parchment paper, divide the cake horizontally in 2 parts. ⑥ Paste the whipped cream on the surface of the one of the divided cakes. Place sliced strawberries over it. Again, set the whipped cream and place strawberry-pieces over it. ⑦ Place another layered cake on top. Sprinkle confectioner’s sugar and place strawberry-plates on top. Chill it in a fridge until served.
A→Eまでの断面を観察します。A: EY: EW =0:5、B: EY: EW =1:5、 C: EY: EW =2:5、D: EY: EW =3:5、E: EY: EW =４:5と左から右へ並んでいます。D,Eは焼き時間を延長する必要があり、Eは構造強度が強く質感があるためクッキングペーパーの隙間を破って膨張したため裂けました。
Cut-surface of sample cakes with the various combination of egg yolks per egg whites : Figures correspond sample A to E from left to right. Sample A is a typical angel food cake. The ratio egg yolks per egg whites is; 0 in A, 1/5 in B, 2/5 in C, 3/5 in D, 4/5 in E. Unfortunately, sample E ruptured during oven-bake.
The sample C was selected for its modification. I assumed that the sample C will change its texture into that close to a typical chiffon cake plus an angel food cake with using baking powder.
サンプルCをベースにオリジナルなシフォンケーキの配合を考えました。卵黄：卵白の比率は2:5前後をチョイスします。これを軸に水分／小麦粉比（バッターの粘度とベーキングパウダーの効果に影響）、砂糖(上白糖）／小麦粉（>1(0.75)のhigh ratioに収める）に計算をして微調整します。水分比のカギになる牛乳（換水値90）の量は卵黄混合液に小麦粉を少量ずつ混合し、バッターの粘度(consistency)を見ながら少しずつ補充した結果、total 40 ml加えました（換水率からの理論値は10 ml相当です）。薄力粉の総使用量は102 g となりました。配合組成を下記に示します。今回作成したバッターをChiffon C、前回作成した基本のシフォンケーキをChiffon N, エンゼルフードケーキをChiffon Zとし、教科書的なシフォンケーキをchiffon Tとしています。C, N, Zはφ18cmのケーキパン用の用量（実測値で単位はグラム(g))で、Tは小麦粉を100とした時の配合比で示します。略号はPSS: Powdered Superfine Sugar, GS: Granulated Sugar, CT: Cream of Tartar, VO: Vegetable Oil, BP: Baking Powderです。
Ingredients
Chiffon C
Chiffon N
Chiffon Z
Chiffon T
Cake Flour
102
130
60
100
PSS (GS)
84
104
60
81 (108)
Whole Egg
143
Egg Yolk
52 (2.8 ea)
74 (4 ea)
Egg White
226 (7 ea)
173 (5 ea)
210 (5 ea)
CT
3
1.3
3
1
VO
40
52
40
Water (Milk)
(40)
(104)
80(88)
Salt
2.0
2.5
1
2
BP
4
5
4
Vanilla Oil
a few drops
a few drops
a few drops
Almond Essence
a few drops
Baking Trick
170C x 40 minutes
170C x 55 minutes
170C x 35 minutes
Blending Ratio of the Chiffon Cake C : Chiffon C → modified version (new), Chiffon N → conventional chiffon cake previously made, Chiffon Z → basic angel food cake, Chiffon T → basic chiffon cake (from text book)
シフォンケーキ作りの常法に準じますので端折ります。 ①卵黄3個分、粉砕上白糖42グラム、牛乳40グラム、キャノラオイル40グラムを耐熱ボウルに入れ、Bain-marieで混合します。 ②薄力粉102グラム、ベーキングパウダー4グラムを少しずつ篩い、ホイッパーで混ぜて安定した乳化状態にします。少し粘調ですがグルテンが析出してくるほどではないです。 ③7個分の卵白にクリームオブターター3グラムを加えて、電動ホイッパーで泡立てします。粉砕上白糖を加えstiff peakのメレンゲに仕上げます、 ④go back methodにしたがい両者を混合し、均一な生地になったら焼型に注ぎます。多すぎるようならラメキンに注いでカップケーキのように一緒に焼きます。ラメキンは170C x 20分、チューブパンの方は170C x 40分焼きます。 ⑤ラメキンのケーキは熱いうちにパレットナイフで側面をぐるっと切り離してお皿にひっくり返して抜き出します。これで焼縮みは最小限になります。チューブパンはひっくり返してマグカップの上で冷まします。
Modified chiffon batter: Place 3 egg yolks, 42 gram powdered superfine sugar, 40 gram oil, and 40 gram milk into a middle bowl over Bain-marie and mix well. Shift 102 gram cake flour and 2 gram salt, 4 gram baking powder over the egg yolk mixture,and whisk until well incorporated. Place 7 egg whites and 3 gram cream of tartar in a metal bowl, and electric-whisk until soft peak form. Gradually adding the powdered superfine sugar, electric-whisk until stiff peak form. According to the go back method, combine the egg yolk mixture and the stiff peak meringue to fold it gently until it gets smooth and even. Pour the batter into the tube pan and oven-bake at 170C for 40 minutes.
卵黄／卵白配合比と小麦と砂糖の配合比（ratio high / low)から分類したスポンジケーキの分類
教科書的な基本のシフォンケーキの配合組成は以下の通りです。Encyclopedia of Food and health 2016: P 582より引用させていただきました。これより上白糖を用いる場合の比率はシフォンケーキで81、エンジェルフードケーキで161と概算しました。
Chiffon Cake (% Flour Weight)
Angel food Cake (% Flour Weight)
Flour
100
100
Granulated Sugar
108
215
Egg White
277
Whole Egg
143
Cream of Tartar
1
4
Oil
40
Water
80
Salt
2
1
Baking Powder
4
教科書的なシフォンケーキとエンゼルフードケーキの配合組成：Encyclopedia of Food and health 2016: P 582より引用
ここから分量をΦ18 cmサイズのシフォンケーキ専用の焼型に合わせて計算、微調整していきます。ただし卵黄／卵白=4/5(個数比）で作成しますので少し分量修正が必要になります。卵白の換水値を80、牛乳の換水値90とし、卵白重量は1個34.6グラムでしたので卵黄より1個分多い卵白は約28グラムの水分とカウントしました。下記に今回作成した標準タイプのシフォンケーキの配合組成表を示します。 ただし以下のHigh Ratio ケーキの基本公式を使用します（焼型容積率75%で概算）。
Making chiffon batter: Place 4 egg yolk, 52 gram sugar, 52 gram oil, and 104 gram milk into a middle bowl over Bain-marie and mix well. Shift 130 gram cake flour and 2 gram salt, 5 gram baking powder over the egg yolk mixture,and whisk until well incorporated. Place 5 egg whites and 2 gram cream of tartar in a metal bowl, and electric-whisk until soft peak form. Gradually adding sugar, electric-whisk until stiff peak form. According to the go back method, combine the egg yolk mixture and the stiff peak meringue to fold it gently until it gets smooth and even. Pour the batter into the tube pan and oven-bake at 170C for 55 minutes.
Thermal expansion of the batter: In 5 minutes baking at 170C, the batter begins to show its elevation. In 10 minutes, the apparent lentiform elevation appears. In 20 minutes, the elevation of the batter gets over the side wall of the tube pan to cause disruption of the surface. In 25 minutes, it reaches the peak elevation with marked crack.
Blending Ratio of the Sample Batter : Abbreviations are as follows; EY: egg yolk, OI: oil, MI: milk, EW: eg white, CT: cream of tartar, SA; salt, PS: powdered superfine sugar, CF: cake flour, TE:; total egg yolk mixture, TM: total meringue flour mixture, TV: total volume, BT: baking time
Swiss Roll用のスポンジケーキの黄金比を前回捻出しましたが、この比率は非常にシフォンケーキの組成に酷似しています。これは単においしい生地はシフォンケーキであると肯定したにすぎません。そこでシフォンケーキの原点であるクラシックエンゼルフードケーキ（卵黄混合なし、油脂混合なし、ベーキングパウダー混合なし）から少しずつ卵黄／油脂を混合していきオリジナルなシフォンケーキの混合比とHigh ratio cake（砂糖の添加量が小麦粉に比べて相当多いケーキ）に関して極めてみたいと思います。
まず、ゼロに値するもの（卵黄なし）をまず作成してその食感を確かめる必要がありますが、これには①エンゼルフードケーキ（油脂、ベーキングパウダー混合なし）と②ホワイトスポンンジケーキ（バター（混合比 小麦の重量の約1/2)、ベーキングパウダー混合）があります。いずれも基本レシピは周知されていますが、前者はhigh ratio cake（1:2）になります。断面は両方ともピュアーな白色調ですが前者は高級食パンをさらにモフモフにした食感（今回確認）で、後者は柔らかめのスポンジケーキのような食感（以前に確認）になります。油脂（バター）を加えることでの食感の方向性は前回のSwiss roll同様で重量感と保湿感を加える方向にベクトルが向きます。油脂の方向軸は見当がつきますが、砂糖を増量(high ratio)することに対する方向軸は現時点では確認できていません。
Ingredients: 基本のエンゼルフードケーキの配合組成は以下の通りです。原本（Boston Cooking School Cook Book, 1986) では、11個の卵白とグラニュー糖を用いていますが、グラニュー糖よりも卵白に親和性のより高い上白糖（superfine sugar）をさらにミキサーで粉砕したpowdered superfine sugarで統一しました。さらに10 inch（φ25 cm）相当からφ18 cmに減量換算し、卵白重量（実測値）にあわせて焼き時間も微調整しました。 φ18 cm のシフォンケーキ専用の焼き型を使用します。
Ingredients
Amount for φ18 cm tube pan (chiffon cake pan)
Egg white (L)
5 ea (210 gram)
Cream of Tartar
3 gram
Salt
1 gram
Powdered superfine sugar
60 gram
Vanilla oil
a few drops
Almond extract
a few drops
Cake flower
60 gram
Powdered superfine sugar
60 gram
Baking time
170℃ x 35 minutes
Classic Angel Food Cake : The recipe is adjusted to a φ18 cm cake pan.
The pictures show powdered superfine sugar and refined flour mixture. Put superfine sugar into a blender to be crushed into fine powder. Mix the shifted cake flour and the powdered superfine sugar in a cup. Again, put the flour mixture into a blender to be fine powder so as not to deflate the meringue on folding.
The pictures show “cream of tartar” (left), beginning of electric mixture (center), and soft peak form (right). Separate egg yolks from egg whites, and leave egg whites at room temperature for a while. Place 5(210gram) egg whites and 3gram cream of Tartar in a metal bowl. Electric-whisk the egg whites. In a few minutes, it comes to a soft peak form. Adding a half volume of the powdered superfine sugar, continue to whisk at high speed until a firm peak form. The pictures show flavors (vanilla oil/ almond extract) (left), firm peak form (left-center), stiff peak form (center-right) and sieving flour mixture (right). Then, put a few drops of flavor( vanilla oil and almond extract) into the meringue, and continue whisking until it gets to a stiff peak form. I think it somewhat differs from the stiff peak of the beaten with chilled egg whites. Sieve the flour mixture in 2 batches over the meringue.
⑤②で調整した粉類を1/2量ずつメレンゲに篩い、スパチュラで抱き込みます。混ぜにくいですので基本に忠実に中央から辺縁にむけて丁寧に混合（center to margin fold)を行い粉類の痕跡がなくなるまで混ぜます。 ⑥シフォンケーキ用のセンターチューブのある焼き型に注ぎます。注いだ後、竹串で底にたまった空気や大きな気泡を追い出しておきます。ケーキパンの側面についた生地はできる限りキッチンペーパーで拭き取ります。焼くと生地は焼き型の側面を這いあってきますのでそれを邪魔しないためです。 ⑦170℃で35分オーブン焼きします。焼き始めて１５分くらいで表面がgolden brownに到達しますので表面割れ防止もかねてこの時上からアルミフォイルでカバーします。
Going by the down to up fold method, fold the flour into the meringue until no grainy. Pour the batter into the cake pan and remove air bubbles with a skewer. Wipe out the protruding part of the batter. Oven-bake at 170C for about 35 minutes. If the surface of the batter comes to dark early, cover the top with aluminum foil.
Cool the cake upside down with the center tube on a mug. Then, release the margin with a palette knife and pick up the center tube. Release the bottom and center fall. Flip down the mold and drop the cake.The angel food cake is done.
<前回作成した小麦粉のタンパク濃度を6.2%に調整して作成したSwiss Roll> Previously baked Swiss roll, the sponge cake of that was adjusted it’s protein concentration into 6.2 percent,
材料配合組成は下記のとおりです。上記のごとく、小麦タンパク濃度は7%に調整しました。卵はegg yolk 4個で77グラム、egg white 4個で136グラム、 total 213グラムでしたので砂糖は80グラム, 粉類（薄力粉60グラム、コーンスターチ20グラム), 牛乳20グラム、バター60グラム、塩2グラムで配合しました。 バターの略号をB（Butter)として、計算上最終的な配合比 は、E : S : F : B: L = 10.5 : 4 : 4 : 3: 1となりました。
Materials
Amount: for 26 x 26 x 2cm square pan
Egg Yolk
4 ea
Superfine Sugar
60 gram
Whole Milk for dilution liquid
20 gram
Salt
2 gram
Cake Flour
60 gram
Cornstarch
20 gram
Salted butter
60 gram
Egg White
4 ea
White Wine Vinegar
3 gram
Superfine Sugar
20 gram
Baking time
180C x 10minutes
Original Swiss Roll Batter Recipe: When it’s assumed that Egg Yolk →E, Sugar →S, Flour →F, , Butter →B, Liquid →L,, E : S : F : B: L equals to 10.5 : 4 : 4 : 3: 1.
<タンパク濃度7.0%に調節し、バターを60グラム加えた生地のオーブン調理前後> The batter, adjusted it’s protein-percentage into 7.0 with adding 60gram butter, was oven-baked at 180C for 10minutes until the color of the surface got golden brown.
スイスロールの拡大断面比較：（左）タンパク濃度6.2% （右）タンパク濃度7% + バター 蜂巣構造の中にバターが入りこんで重量感と保湿が改善されているのが見てとれます。 Cut surface of the Swiss roll: The left picture shows the cut surface of the roll containing 6.2 percent protein in its sponge cake, and the right does that of 7.0 percent protein and additional butter. Butter displaced the pneumatic space, and that attained moist and rich bulky taste.
スポンジが黄色調の方が6.2%、白色調の方が’7%+バター Converting the previous recipe(6.2%) into the present(7.0% plus butter), the color of cut surface turned yellowish to pale and the color of surface got more brownish that stimulates the appetite.一番黄色調なのがタンパク濃度11.2%, 中間が6.2%, 褐色調なのが7.0%+バター 3 types of the rolls’re shown. The most yellowish corresponds to 11.2 percent protein concentration, and the most brownish does to 7.0% plus butter.
以上より、チョコレート苦手派流オリジナル定理としてのロールケーキ生地の材料配合黄金比を、 E : S : F : B: L = 10~11 : 4 : 4 : 3: 1 と決めました。
